Myths and Misconceptions on Waterproof and Breathable
Did you get wet this weekend? Thinking maybe your rain shell might be in
need of replacement? Or just not as good as the guy or girl who sold it to you
six months ago, said it would be. Before
you charge into a store gun blazing, or completely give up, leaving yourself to
get soggy whenever it drizzles…read this first.
Like anything else, a good rain jacket
requires a good amount of care and maintenance, that a good amount of us never
show it. Let’s break down what it means
to be labeled WATERPROOF BREATHABLE, and how to care for these technical
garments to extend their lives as long as possible.
The first time I went to buy a rain jacket on
my own was six years ago. I was moving
to Hawaii during the rainy season. I
bought a windbreaker, not a rain jacket – it sucked. Don’t make the same poor choices in judgment
I did.
To be knighted waterproof you jacket needs to possess three major attributes. All three of the following must haves have a
ton of variations within their own right, and it is these variations that make
a jacket more expensive, durable, packable or breathable than another. So here they are, the three MUST HAVE’S of
the Waterproof Guild.
1 – Membrane
The membrane is the barrier against all
things soggy. This day and age, 99.99
percent of all membranes are semi-porous, or “Breathable.” Gore-Tex is
the most recognizable brand of membrane.
They kick started the rain jacket revolution when they took their
technology, previously used only in the operating room as material for surgeon
gloves, invented so the surgeons hands wouldn’t get wet from sweat while
operating. The Gore-Tex allowed the doctors sweat to escape through microscopic,
laser punched holes through the glove, while blocking any blood or infectious
material from entering the glove.
How a Membrane works: Picture a chain-link
fence. You are facing the chain link
fence holding a handful of marbles.
Throw the marbles at the fence…voila! The marbles go through the holes in
the fence. The fence is your membrane
and the marbles, a sweat (vapor) molecule.
Now take a beach ball, stand in front of the same fence and throw the
beach ball at said fence. If you have
visualized this demonstration correctly, the beach ball bounced off your
membrane. The beach ball is the, much
larger than vapor, water molecule.
It should be said that Gore is not the only player in the ever expanding membrane
manufacturing game. Other companies like
Marmot, The North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc, infinity, are
all making their own proprietary membranes.
There are other companies making membranes for many brands to use as
well, like E-Vent. Gore
is known to be the most resilient and best backed membrane out there, but it’s
the most expensive too, and not necessary for your everyday rain coat.
Membranes also come in different thicknesses,
chemical make ups and applications. For
instance, a three layer coat will have a one or two ply membrane, a physical
material laminated to the jackets outer nylon. Three layer coats are the most
durable and most breathable. A two point
five layer jacket will have a liquid version of the membrane coated to the inside
of the jackets outer nylon and a textured finish to lift the membrane off the
wearer’s skin, to enhance breath-ability.
Finally, a two layer jacket will have the same liquid applied membrane,
with no textured finish. Two layer
waterproof breathables are the least expensive and least breathable versions of
a membrane. When shopping for a rain jacket, ask the clerk if they know how
many layers the jacket is comprised of.
If they do not know, check the hang tag, they often have all the details
on display.
So that’s membrane, in a shell.
2 – DWR (Durable Water Repeller)
DWR is the stuff that makes the water or
whatever you managed to spill on yourself, bead off your jacket. It is a finish applied to the outer nylon of
your coat. Like everything in this
world, DWR’s have a lifespan. As time
passes, your DWR will lose potency, also, the more you wash your jacket (which
we will get to) the more the DWR washes off.
As you lose your DWR more water will sit atop your membrane, making the
jacket less breathable, making your sweat stick inside your jacket, making you
think your jacket is leaking. The good
news is there are inexpensive ways to reapply a DWR to your jacket. Spray on and wash in methods are out
there. The most prominent brands for
these products are Nikwax and Grangers. Also, DWR’s are heat activated, so throw
your jacket in the dryer for ten minutes once a month to revitalize your DWR. Wash your jacket after every heavy use to get
the sweat out.
3 –Sealed Seams
Where a stitch goes in, water can follow. In order to fully seal your jacket, every seam
must be covered with seam tape. Some
jackets will boast “fully protected
target areas” or “critically seam sealed,” these are fancy ways of saying
the jacket it not waterproof, but rather water resistant. Another driving factor of price will be how
well the jacket seams are welded or taped.
The smaller and lighter the tape, or the more seam welds* (*reinforcing
the seam by overlaying sections of the jacket) the more it will cost. Seam sealing is a timely and expensive
process, which is why a lot of packets aren’t waterproof. In order to cover every seam with tape would
take forever and cost the consumer, usually, more than they are willing or need
to pay for the product.
How to care for your shell
As mentioned earlier the membrane in your
shell is full of tiny, tiny holes. These
holes are designed to let sweat in its vapour form, out of your jacket. If you wear your jacket while it is pouring
out and it is hot out as well, you are going to sweat a lot. Some of your sweat may cool and turn to
liquid before it can escape as vapor through the membrane. Once that sweat is
in there you need to wash it out. Your
sweat, no offense, is acidic and can to nasty things to your rain coat, and
love life, if not properly taken care of.
The most common problem people encounter with
shells is the delaminating of the membrane or seam tape from the coat
itself. This is usually due to a lack of
cleansing that sweat out. Acidy sweat
sits on the membrane, hangs in your closet and eats away at the glue from the
seam tape and breaks down the membrane itself.
Shells are easy to clean, but you need to use
the right soap. Detergents based soaps,
liquid or powder, can either clog or harm your membrane and are not recommended
to clean your jackets. Use a water based
soap designed to work with membranes. Check out Grangers web-site for product info: GRANGERS
Once
your shell is clean re-apply some DWR to it.
Wash it method is best, best spray on works good in a pinch too. Read the product label to see if the DWR is
heat activated. Most are, but not all are.
If it is heat activated, after washing or spraying, throw it in the
dryer to re-activate and seal the DWR to the jacket.
Wash
your jacket at leat once a season and after every heavy use and you will
greatly increase the life and worth of this valuable piece of gear.
OK,
that’s it. I hope it doesn’t rain the
next time you get a chance to go play outside, but if it does…your welcome.
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